Под толстым слоем снега и льда холодного континента мира покоятся тела сотен людей. Корреспондент BBC Future исследовала их истории.

Мрачные девственные земли на краю мира скрывают замерзшие останки человеческих тел. Каждое из них повествует историю отношений человечества с этим негостеприимным континентом.

Все наши современные технологии и знания не спасают от смертельной опасности, с которой сталкивается каждый, кто отправляется в Антарктиду. Внутри континента температура воздуха достигает -90°C, а скорость ветра в некоторых местах — 322 км/час. Впрочем, погодные условия — далеко не единственный риск.

Много тел ученых и исследователей, которые погибли в этих суровых местах, найти невозможно. Некоторые из них обнаружили лишь десятилетия или века спустя. Многих так никогда и не найдут. Они глубоко похоронены под толстым слоем льда и в расщелинах льда или вместе с ледниками медленно уходят в море.

Истории гибели этих людей окутаны загадками и странными обстоятельствами, но каждая из них открывает нечто о жизни на одном из самых неприветливых материков планеты.

1800-е годы: чилийская женщина

На острове Ливингстон в Южном Шетландському архипелаге у Антарктического полуострова уже 175 лет лежат череп и бедренная кость человека. Это — древнейшие человеческие останки, найденные в Антарктиде.

Кости обнаружили на побережье в 1980-х годах. Чилийские исследователи установили, что они принадлежали женщине, которая умерла в возрасте 21 года. Она была коренной жительницей юга Чили, что лежит за 1000 км от Антарктиды.

Анализ костей показал, что она умерла где-то между 1819-м и 1825 годами. А это означает, что она была одной из первых людей, которые достигли Антарктики.

Русская православная церковь на небольшом холме возле чилийской исследовательской базы

Вопрос в том, как она туда попала? Традиционные каноэ коренных чилийцев не могли удержать такое долгое путешествие сквозь бурные здешние воды.

По версии чилийских исследователей, женщина сопровождала корабль охотников на тюленей, которые плыли из северного полушария до островов Антарктики, открытых Уильямом Смитом в 1819 году.

Но участие женщин в таких длительных экспедициях была неслыханной по тем временам.

Мореплаватели имели тесные отношения с коренными жителями Чили, говорит Мелисса Салерно, археолог Аргентинской совета по научно-техническим исследованиям (Conicet). Но взаимодействие двух культур не всегда была дружественной.

Ловцы тюленей могли, например, забрать женщину с одного берега и бросить ее на другом, предполагает исследовательница.

Каждый ученый и исследователь, который отправляется в Антарктику, знает, что это рискованное путешествие

Усложняет расследование этой истории и отсутствие каких-либо записей — корабельные журналы ранних экспедиций в Антарктиду не сохранились.

Впрочем, история этой женщины знаменует начало путешествий до крайнего юга Земли и неизбежные смерти, которые сопровождали исследования этого континента.

29 марта 1912 года: экспедиция Роберта Скотта

Британские исследователи под руководством Роберта Фалкона Скотта достигли Южного полюса 17 января 1912 года, только на три недели позже норвежской экспедиции Руаля Амундсена. Гонки за открытие Южного полюса британцы проиграли.

Когда они обнаружили, что были не первыми, дух команды упал. Но вскоре все стало намного хуже.

Путешествие к полюсу была огромным испытанием человеческой выносливости, но кроме вызовов сурового климата, Скотт испытывал сильного морального давления. Во-первых, он вел команду из более 60 мужчин, а во-вторых, дома на них возлагали большие надежды.

Роберт Фалкон Скотт пишет дневник экспедиции

«Сделать или умереть — с такой установкой они идут в Антарктику», — отметил Леонард Дарвин, президент Королевского географического общества и сын Чарльза Дарвина, в своей речи во время прощания с экспедицией.

«Капитан Скотт в очередной раз докажет, что мужество нации не вмерла… такие подвиги как этот, безусловно, усиливаются самоуважение британцев», — добавил он.

Эти надежды легли тяжелым бременем на Скотта, который был очень интеллигентным, чувствительным человеком, объясняет Макс Джонс, историк Манчестерского университета, который изучает полярные экспедиции.

Несмотря на его сомнения и тревоги, настроение «сделать или умереть» заставил команду рисковать.

Одним из первых на обратном пути с полюса в феврале умер Эдгар Эванс. Затем 17 марта Лоуренс Оутс, который считал себя обузой для команды.

Участники злополучной британской экспедиции к Южному полюсу

Тела Оутса и Эванса так никогда и не нашли. Скотта, Эдварда Уилсона и Генри Баверса обнаружила поисковая экспедиция через несколько месяцев после их смерти. В связи с датой в дневнике Скотта, они погибли 29 марта 1912 года. Поисковая группа оставила их там, где они лежали, присыпав тела снегом.

«Не думаю, что людям когда-то приходилось переживать то, что пережили мы за последний месяц», — написал Скотт на последних страницах своего дневника. Команда знала, что ближайший склад с провизией был за 18 км, но они застряли в жестокой вьюге, ослабевая каждый день.

«Они были готовы отдать свои жизни, они считали это правильным», — добавляет Джонс.

14 октября 1965: Джереми Бэйли, Дэвид Уайлд и Джон Уилсон

Вездеход Muskeg ползет сквозь заснеженную пустыню вблизи гор Хеймефронт, на восток от исследовательской станции Холли на Востоке Антарктиды. За ваговозом сани с упряжкой собак.

В кабине — исследователь Джереми (Джерри) Бейли, который измеряет лед, геодезист Дэвид (Дай) Уайлд и врач Джон Уилсон. Джон Росс позади в санях. Команда едет уже целый день, в кабину пересаживаются по очереди, чтобы согреться.

Мужчины в кабине внимательно всматриваются в ледяную пустыню впереди, но маленькое ветровое стекло сильно залеплено снегом.

Расщелины во льдах скрывают смертельную опасность, этой команде полярников очень повезло

Росс смотрел на заснеженный пейзаж, когда вдруг почувствовал, что собаки остановились. Завернутый в балаклаву и два анораки, он ничего не слышал. Он оглянулся и увидел, что машина исчезла из поля зрения. Пройдя вперед, Росс заметил тягач, который втиснулся гусеницами в большую трещину между льдами на глубине примерно 30 метров, под его весом кабину расплющило.

Росс окликнул своих товарищей, но ответа ни из кабины, ни из глубин расщелины не было. Через четверть часа Росс услышал глухой ответ. Диалог, который он записал сразу после трагедии, был краток:

Росс: Гаи?

Бейли: Гаи погиб. Это я.

Росс: Это Джон или Джерри?

Бейли: Джерри.

Росс: Что с Джоном?

Бейли: Он покойник, брат.

Росс: Ты как?

Бейли: Я разбитый.

Росс: Ты можешь двигаться? Можешь обвязать себя веревкой?

Бейли: На мне нет живого места.

Росс попытался спуститься в провал, но спуск очень сложный. Бейли приказал ему не рисковать, но Росс пытался. После нескольких попыток Бейли прекратил отвечать ему. Вскоре Росс услышал из недр земли крик. Больше Бейли не отвечал.

Трещины в леднике, которые могут простираться на сотни метров вглубь, является серьезной угрозой для полярников. 14 октября 1965 года сильные ветры запорошивших снегом льды, и мужчины не заметили тонкую голубую линию трещины.

Многие тела так никогда и не найдут, другие навсегда похоронены здесь

В команде были молодые исследователи, некоторые — только из университета. Готовясь к экспедиции в Антарктику, они преимущественно изучали оборудование, с которым им придется работать, а не способы выживания в жестких условиях.

Впрочем, каждая катастрофа в Антарктиде медленно меняла технологии путешествий и обучала людей.

Август 1982: Амброз Морган, Кевин Оклтон и Джон Колл

Трое мужчин отправились в экспедицию к соседнему острову Пітерманн на Западе Антарктиды.

Лед на море был крепким, и команда быстро добралась до места назначения. Они разбили лагерь возле побережья, любуясь невероятно ярким полярным сиянием, которое, однако, портило любую связь.

На следующий день поднялся сильный шторм, который уничтожил лед. Путь обратно был отрезан, но полярники не волновались. Провизии должно было хватить на месяц.

Но в следующие несколько дней буря окончательно разбила лед в проливе.

Контакт с внешним миром ограничивался радиосвязью с базой в положенные часы. Так прошли две недели. Радиопередачи становились все короче, потому что батареи в приемниках разряжались. Команда начала беспокоиться.

Лагерь окружили пингвины генту и адели. И хотя они были симпатичные, их запах раздражал полярников. Ситуация ухудшалась с каждым днем. У членов экспедиции началась диарея, поскольку часть съестных запасов оказалась испорченной. Они убили и съели нескольких пингвинов.

Настроение команды ухудшалось все больше, во время переговоров они жаловались на скуку. В пятницу 13 августа 1982 года их увидели в телескоп с основной базы. Радіоакумулятори разряжались. Но море снова начало замерзать и это дало надежду на спасение.

Смерть всегда рядом в Антарктиде

Через два дня, в воскресенье, 15 августа, в запланированное время полярники не вышли на связь. А потом произошел еще один мощный шторм.

Со станции можно было увидеть остров, но на море вместо льда опять были только черные волны.

«Эти ребята сделали обычную вещь, которую мы все делали постоянно — выехали в небольшое путешествие к острову», — рассказывает Пит Салино, который был в то время на главной базе. Их больше никогда не увидели.

Вокруг острова были сильные течения и прочный лед образовался сравнительно редко, вспоминает Салино. Способ, которым проверяли прочность льда, был примитивным — они просто ударяли по нему деревянной палкой с металлическим наконечником.

Даже после тщательных поисков тела так и не нашли. Салино предполагает, что полярники вышли на лед, который появился на море, и погибли, когда опять поднялся шторм.

«Это сложно представить, сидя в уютной комнате в Суррее, — говорит Салино. — Но там всегда был риск провалиться под лед. Мы брали с собой запасная одежда в герметичной сумке. Но мы осознавали, что это может произойти с каждым из нас».

Наследие смерти

Те, кто потерял в Антарктиде друзей или коллег, не могут даже должным образом оплакать их и проститься с ними.

Британский геофизик Клиффорд Шелли, который работал на Аргентинских островах близ Антарктического полуострова в конце 1970-х, потерял во время экспедиции друзей. Они погибли, когда поднимались на вершину Маунт Пири в 1976 году.

Предполагали, что трех полярников — Джеффри Харгривза, Майкла Уокера и Грэма Вітфілда — накрыла лавина. Остатки их лагеря увидели во время поисков с воздуха, но их тела так и не нашли.

Могилы исследователей

«Ты просто ждешь и ждешь, но они не возвращаются. И надежда постепенно угасает», — говорит Шелли.

Даже когда тела находят, тяжелые условия жизни и труда в Антарктиде не дают времени на скорбь.

Рон Пиндер, который работал радіооператором на Южных Оркнейских островах в конце 1950-х и начале 1960-х годов, все еще оплакивает своего друга Роджера Филлера. Роджер маркировал птиц на острове Сігню и погиб, соскользнув с шестиметровой скалы в 1961 году.

Его похоронили на острове. «Это было 57 лет назад. Но теперь я скучаю больше, чем тогда. В полярной экспедиции жизни такое, что приходится быстро брать себя в руки», — говорит Пиндер.

Шелли имеет схожие чувства. «Думаю, мы не имели тогда возможности полностью осознать потерю, — говорит он. — Это остается где-то на подсознании».

Эти истории вызывают противоречивые чувства, добавляет мужчина. Антарктида чрезвычайно красивое место в любое время года. Мы мечтали туда попасть и мы занимались тем, чем хотели заниматься».

Памятник погибшим полярникам в Институте полярных исследований Скотта

Эти трагедии помогли сделать жизнь нынешних исследователей в Антарктиде безопаснее, хотя несчастные случаи, конечно, случаются и теперь.

А друзья и семьи погибших полярников делают все, чтобы их не забыли. Возле Института полярных исследований Скотта в Кембридже в Великобритании установлены две дубовые столбы, которые касаются друг друга сверху.

Это первая часть памятника погибшим в Антарктике. Ее установил Британский трест памятников Антарктики, который основали Род Рос Джонс и Брайан Дорсет-Бейли, брат Джереми Бэйли.

Вторая половина памятника — металлическая стрела, которая наклоняется в сторону моря, стоит в городе Порт-Стэнли на Фолклендских островах, откуда много исследователей отправилась в последний этап путешествия до Антарктиды.

Обе части монумента, расположенные на противоположных концах света, идеально дополняют друг друга.

Они символизируют связь между домом и далеким, суровым континентом, который навсегда забрал этих исследователей себе.

Прочитать оригинал этой статьи на английском языке можно на сайте BBC Future.

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