Процесс приготовления некоторых мясных деликатесов может занимать более шчет лет. Каким образом мясо, которое не подвергают термообработке, не портится в течение такого длительного времени?

Осенью 2016 года в пригороде Нью-Йорка в Квинсе вспыхнул скандал. Жители одного из домов вывесили на своем заднем дворе куски свиной туши.

Соседи возмутились: мясо может привлечь крыс, они волновались и жаловались на невыносимую вонь.

Хозяева дома, однако, отказались убирать мясо, отметив, что оно — для еды, в частности, для определенных китайских блюд. Соседи, в ответ, обратились к госслужб.

Но во многих частях мира такое зрелище вполне привычное.

Прогуляйтесь по тихой улочке любого азиатского городка и вы увидите жуткие кулинарные изделия. Длинные, толстые куски свиного бекона и рыбные туши свисают с вешалок для одежды. Однажды я увидела даже целую свиную ногу с копытом и всем прочим, которая сушилась прямо на фонарном столбе.

Впрочем, как бы неэстетично это не выглядело, это — обычная практика вяления сырого мяса на свежем воздухе, которую применяют тысячелетиями.

Но каким образом оно не портится? Мы волнуемся за качество куриной грудинки, которая полдня пролежала без холодильника, но спокойно пробуем мясо, которое провело на солнце несколько дней, и остаемся после этого вполне здоровыми.

Ключ к этой загадке — влажность.

В процессе вяления внутри куска свинины или даже целой свиной ноги начинаются гонки между бактериями и испарением жидкости. Если вы хотите получить на обед вкусный кусок ветчины, процесс обезвоживания следует ускорить.

В Китае колбасы из свинины также часто сушат под открытым небом

Для этого мясо покрывают солью. Соль вытягивает жидкость из тканей на поверхность, где она испаряется, так же, как посоленная ломтик баклажана или кабачка избавляется от лишней воды.

В то же время благодаря соли поверхность мяса и часть внутреннего слоя становится непривлекательной для разнообразных микроорганизмов. Соль также вытягивает жидкость и из самих бактерии, оставляя лишь безобидную высушенную оболочку.

Процесс испарения жидкости в больших кусках мяса происходит не так быстро, оставляя риск размножения бактерий. Чтобы этого не происходило, в каждые два-три сантиметра мякоти делают инъекции с солевым раствором.

В раствор иногда добавляют небольшое количество нитрита натрия. Этот консервант останавливает микробов, а также позволяет сохранить нежно-розовый оттенок свежего мяса.

Хотя вода способствует размножению бактерий, в сочетании с солью и нитритом натрия она ускоряет процесс консервирования, проникая скорее внутрь мяса.

Именно поэтому, во многих рецептах вяления, советуют сначала выдержать мясо в прохладном, влажном помещении, объясняет Антонио Мата, специалист по приготовлению мясных изделий и советник кулинарного сайта AmazingRibs.com.

После того как мясо хорошо впитало в себя солевой раствор, температуру в помещении повышают, чтобы запустить процесс испарения. Но делать это надо медленно.

«Если жидкость пойдет из мяса слишком быстро, его поверхность будет пересушенной, — отмечает Грег Блондер, профессор Бостонского университета и также эксперт упомянутого выше сайта.

Отдельные условия процесса зависят от местного климата.

«Разные рецепты ветчины определяются терруаром (совокупностью климатических факторов. — Ред.)», — говорит Блондер. Но главное — это наличие теплого помещения, в котором можно контролировать уровень влажности.

В Китае, как и во многих других местах, домашнее вяленое мясо — от консервированного бекона к колбас из свинины, высушенных на свежем воздухе, — обычно готовят на зимние праздники, когда климатические условия позволяют мясу безопасно сушиться.

Впрочем, полакомиться вяленым мясом любят не только люди.

Как предупреждает инструкция, разработанная Политехническим университетом Вирджинии, на поверхности вяленого мяса с удовольствием поселяются насекомые с говорящими названиями: сырная муха, кожеед ветчинный или червононогий ветчинный жук.

Слой соли на поверхности мяса, извлекает из него жидкость, что предотвращает размножение бактерий внутри

Даже если мясо удастся уберечь от посягательств сырной мухи, достижения им идеального вкуса иногда приходится ждать несколько месяцев. Как, однако, доказали повара многих культур мира, результат стоит ожидания.

Знаменитая китайская ветчина Цзиньхуа готовится минимум шесть месяцев, итальянский деликатес кулателло — 14-48 месяцев (и заказывают его тоже за несколько лет до торжественного ужина).

Самая дорогая в мире испанская ветчина достигает своего изысканного вкуса на протяжении шести лет, как свидетельствует Книга рекордов Гиннесса.

Чем дольше вялится ветчина, тем более интенсивным становится ее вкус — резкий привкус придает блюду прогорклый жир. Но именно за это ее и ценят гурманы.

Сушки также используют для приготовления вяленой говядины — обязательного элемента меню каждого элитного ресторана. Крепкий аромат придает мясу плесень, которая появляется на его поверхности во время сушки и которую срезают перед приготовлением.

Сегодня мясо вялят, как правило, в специальных камерах с тщательным контролем температуры и влажности.

Учитывая, что в процессе вяления не используют никаких консервантов, длительности приготовления мяса не может не поражать.

Антонио Мата, к примеру, когда сотрудничал с шеф-поваром чикагского ресторана. Они готовили вяленую говядину, которую выдерживали в течение 71 дня.

Но в прошлом, конечно, таких технологий не было.

«Пусть окорок висит в склепе, пока он не станет сочным и пока вы сможете терпеть его вонь», — говорится в одном английском рецепте XVIII века.

Испытаете этот рецепт на своих соседях?

Прочитать оригинал этой статьи на английском языке можно на сайте BBC Future.

Хотите получать главные статьи в мессенджер? Подписывайтесь на наш Telegram.

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